Showing posts with label Super Chikan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Super Chikan. Show all posts

Sunday, August 22, 2021

#513 : Sunflower River Blues & Gospel Festival - 2021

 


Clarksdale, Mississippi

August 12-15, 2021

By Phillip Smith; August 21, 2021

 

After my first trip down to Clarksdale, Mississippi for the Sunflower River Blues and Gospel Festival in 2019, I knew I would want to go again.  Last year the festival was cancelled due to Covid-19, but this year it returned, with one slight difference.  The daytime acts on Saturday performed outdoors on an acoustic stage under the VIP tent, as opposed to being scattered around the downtown area in assorted bars, restaurants, and galleries.  Ground Zero Blues Club also held a steady continuance of live music throughout the weekend as well.

The journey from Iowa to Clarksdale included a one-night stop in Memphis for a night out on Beale Street.  The group I was travelling with held steady at King Jerry Lawler’s Hall of Fame Bar & Grille on Beale, for an evening of live music from The Beale Street All-Stars.  Those guys put on a dazzling show and provided an enjoyable evening of entertainment.    

On the way to Clarksdale Thursday morning, we made a stop at the Delta Cultural Center in Helena, Arkansas to catch the live broadcast of the legendary King Biscuit Time radio show.  King Biscuit Time is the longest running blues radio program in the world, logging over 18,490 episodes since its inception in 1941, and can still be heard each weekday from 12:15pm – 12:45pm on KFFA out of Helena, or by streaming through the Delta Cultural Center’s Facebook page.  Originally hosted by “Sunshine” Sonny Payne until 2018, the show is now hosted by my friend Thomas Jacques.  It was great to catch up with Thomas as he gave us a tour and filled us in on the history of the show.

After checking in at the Shack Up Inn, we all headed to the Delta Blues Museum, where the festival is held, to enjoy an evening of blues accompanied by a delicious, down-home dinner of grits, greens, and barbeque.  It was great to finally hear Lucious Spiller, Sean “Bad” Apple, and Terry “Big” T Williams live in person.  There’s something special about the way Lucious sings “A Change is Gonna Come”.  He digs deep as he sings it with raw emotion.  With accompaniment from a harp player called Freight Train, Sean Apple’s cover of Skip Jame’s “Hard Times” was really nice.  Lady Trucker made a guest appearance during Sean’s set to sit in on “Sitting on Top of the World”.  Her voice has a lot of power in it and is quite impressive.  Following the Grits & Greens dinner, we headed over to Ground Zero Blues Club, and caught Heather Crosse, “Rockin” Johnny Burgin, and Jaxx Nassar hosting the weekly blues jam.  That was a big ball of fun to be present for that.  The camaraderie among the musicians exudes a sense of family.

Before the festivities began on Friday, we ventured out to visit a few blues sites.  We stopped by Tutwiler first to see where W.C. Handy heard his first slide guitar performance, then visited Sonny Boy Williamson II’s gravesite.  We had lunch at The Cozy Corner in Indianola, a place which sits a couple of blocks away from the new B.B. King Museum.  Their ribs really hit the spot, and the fried okra was cooked perfectly.  This was definitely a one-of-a-kind place to stop.  Just around the corner from the Cozy Corner, sits Club Ebony, a nightclub which has earned its own Mississippi Blues Trail marker for showcasing such artists as Ray Charles, B.B. King, Bobby Bland, Albert King, Little Milton, Count Basie, and many others.  We pushed off from there and visited Dockery Farms, and a possible locations of the famed crossroads nearby, which legend tells us Robert Johnson made his deal with Ol’ Scratch.   

The first band to play on Friday was the Delta Museum Student Band.  It is through this program that many blues artists in the area, such as Christone “Kingfish” Ingram got their start.  Heavy Suga and the Sweet Tones with Heather Crosse and Johnny Burgin took the stage next.  They sound absolutely fabulous together.  I was so happy to hear a couple of my favorites from Heather’s Groovin’ at the Crosse Roads album: “My Man Called Me” and “Why Does a Woman Play a Bass Guitar”.  Lightnin’ Malcolm was an absolute force to be reckoned with.  His guitar performance was sizzling.  James Super Chikan” Johnson followed with his flashy home-made guitars.  I couldn't help but smile when he hit the stage .  His band comprised of his daughter Jamiesa Turner on drums, Heather Falduto on bass, and Lala Craig are impeccable.

Early Saturday afternoon, I made it my number one priority to go listen to the legendary Jimmy “Duck” Holmes.  This recent Grammy nominee and owner of the oldest still-active juke joint in Mississippi The Blue Front Cafe, is the current king of the Bentonia Blues.  It was truly an amazing experience to hear him play “Catfish Blues” and “Roll Me”.  The rest of the afternoon was spent back at Ground Zero for more blues from Steve Kolbus, Lucious Spiller, Jaxx Nassar, Big Train and the Loco Motives, Heavy Suga and the Sweet Tones, and Johnny Burgin.  

With a setlist which included Amy Winehouse’s “Back to Black”, “Sweet Home Chicago”, Susan Tedeschi’s “Hurts So Bad”, and Cindy Lauper’s “Time After Time”, and “Whipping Post” it was a great pleasure to hear Jaxx Nassar.  She is a multi-instrumentalist who has an amazing voice, and killer chops on the guitar.  She even brought out her cigar box guitar made by my friend Kevin Patrick, and gave us a solid dose of “Catfish Blues”.  I can’t wait to hear her first album, whenever it may come out.  I’ll definitely be among the first to buy a copy.

Jim “Big Train” Madsen, another friend of mine from the group I was with, took the stage with his band Big Train and the Loco Motives.  With Madsen on guitar and lead vocals, the rest of the band was comprised of Bill “Top Dog” Cummins on harp, Mason “Thumper” Cullen on bass, and Mike “Pine Box” Lander on percussion.  They delivered an outstanding set of delta blues, covering greats such as “Got My Mojo Working”, “Built for Comfort”, “Bang Bang Bang Bang”, “Before You Accuse Me”, and “Hoochie Coochie Man”.  They also performed a new original blues tune written by Madsen called “I Ain’t Skinny No More”.  That one definitely needs to be released as a single sometime soon.  

Heather Crosse and Johnny Burgin had sounded so good together the previous two times I caught them, I had to hang around and hear them once more.  It was cool to hear Burgin break out his cover L.V. Bank’s “Teddy Bear”.

Several acts were delayed due to rain Saturday evening, but once it cleared, I was front-and-center for Jimbo Mathus with special guest Charlie Musselwhite.  That was the main event as far as I was concerned, and no way was I going to miss this show.  It was still sprinkling a little bit, but I managed to get the camera out for a few shots.   Jimbo started out with “Shake Your Money Maker”, and a most fitting “Ain’t Gonna Rain No More”.  He played Canned Heat’s “On the Road Again”, and Al Green’s “Let’s Stay Together”.  Musselwhite took the stage and stayed until the end.  Together they performed several songs including “Louisiana Blues”, and “Ode to Billy Joe”.

I had a such a fun time, trying to cram as much live music into my vacation as I possibly could.  Sunday morning, we checked out of the Shack Up Inn and began the eleven-hour trek back to Iowa along Highway 61.  Now, it’s just a treasured memory.

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*All photos by Phillip Smith except the one credited otherwise


The Beale Street All Stars at King Jerry Lawler's

Thomas Jacques hosting King Biscuit Time 

Thomas Jacques

Delta Cultural Center at Helena,Arkansas

Legend Shack at The Shack Up Inn

at The Shack Up Inn

Lucious Spiller

Sean "Bad" Apple

Terry "Big T" Williams

      

Jaxx Nassar & Heather Crosse

Jaxx Nassar & Johnny Burgin

Jaxx Nassar & Jim "Big Train" Madsen

Johnny Burgin

Heather Crosse & Johnny Burgin


Tutwiler, Mississippi

Kevin, Terri, Jim, Bill, Joyce, Galen, Pam, Kyle, & Aaron


The Cozy Corner Cafe in Indianola, Mississippi


Club Ebony in Indianola, Mississippi

 

Crossroads * photo by Terri Munch  (Thanks Terri!)

Crossroads : Jim, Terri, Joyce, Bill, Kyle, & Pam 

Dockery Farms

     

Heather Crosse & Johnny Burgin

Heather Crosse

Lee Andrew "Juice" Williams 


Lightnin' Malcolm


James "Super Chikan" Johnson

Lala Craig

James "Super Chikan" Johnson

Heather Falduto


Jimmy "Duck" Holmes

Steve Kolbus and Jaxx Nassar

Lucious Spiller

Jaxx Nassar

Big Train & the Loco Motives


Jimbo Mathus

Charlie Musselwhite

Charlie Musselwhite & Jimbo Mathus

Charlie Musselwhite & Jimbo Mathus






Websites of places mentioned:

 

King Jerry Lawler’s Hall of Fame Bar & Grille – www.lawlersonbeale.com

Delta Cultural Center - www.arkansasheritage.com/delta-cultural-center/delta-cultural-center-home

Shack Up Inn – shackupinn.com

Ground Zero Blues Club – groundzerobluesclub.com

Delta Blues Museum – deltabluesmuseum.org

Hooker Grocery -- www.hookergrocer.com

 

 

 

Websites of artists mentioned:

 

Johnny Burgin - johnnyburgin.com

Steve “Lightnin’” Malcolm - www.lightninmalcolm.com

Big Train & the Loco Motives – bigtrainsblues.com

Jimbo Mathus - www.therealjimbomathus.com

Charlie Musselwhite - www.charliemusselwhite.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

For more information about the festival, visit this website - www.sunflowerfest.org

Tuesday, August 13, 2019

#403 : Sunflower River Blues & Gospel Festival 2019


Clarksdale, Mississippi

August 8-10, 2019



By Phillip Smith; August 12 2019



I’ve visited Clarksdale several times over the past few years, but until this past weekend, my visits were solely to stop in at my favorite store, Cathead Delta Blues & Folk Art, to shop for blues-related music, books, and videos.  I was blessed to be invited along for an excursion to Mississippi by a wonderful group of blues aficionados ( Kyle, Kevin, Galen, Aaron, Jim, and Terri), this past weekend, and had an amazingly fun experience listening to many of the blues artists I have only written about the past few years.   It was great to actually see these artists in person, and in some cases, even meet, shake their hand, and share a few words.

On the trip down from Iowa, we had a stop-over in Memphis, Tennessee where we stayed one block off Beale Street at the renovated Chisca Hotel.  This historic landmark once housed WHBQ, the radio station which was the first to play Elvis Presley’s “That’s Alright Mama” and launched the career of the King.  We grabbed a hearty bite to eat at the Blues CafĂ© and steeped in the music of the Eric Hughes Band at the Rum Boogie CafĂ©.

Upon arrival to Clarksdale, we stopped over at the Cathead for some shopping, before checking in to the Shack Up Inn, a unique and eclectic place to say the least.  This B&B (Bed and Beer) joint is a makeshift community of restored sharecropper shacks.  The lobby and bar are housed in a building which was once a cotton gin, and is chockful of oddities and vintage signage. I would love to have more time to just look around this place.   Later that evening had a fine dinner of grits, greens, and barbeque before heading over to Ground Zero Blues Club for the open jam hosted by the David Dunavant Band.  Jim, from our group, entertained a full house at the Ground Zero with a couple of songs on his beautiful hand-painted psychedelic-green guitar. That was very cool indeed.  We wrapped Thursday evening up at Red’s Juke Joint, to hear Terry “Harmonica” Bean.  The place also happened to be packed with blues fans from around the world.  Rightly named, the venue is illuminated by strings of red Christmas lights which stretch across the low hanging ceiling. 

Early Friday, we all loaded into a couple of cars to explore the delta region in search of gravesites and landmarks.  Included in the places we located were the markers for Aleck Miller aka Sonny Boy Williamson II and two of the three known Robert Johnson markers.  We navigated to Tutwiler where W.C Handy was inspired to write the song “Yellow Dog Blues”, then headed to Moorhead, MS, where the Southern Railway crossed the Yazoo Delta (“Yellow Dog”).  The Crystal Grill in Greenwood served as the perfect lunching destination.  The hamburger and sweet potato fries were splendid, and I could not deny myself a delectable slice of their lemon ice-box pie.  It was so good; I’m still thinking of it three days later.  Before heading back to Clarksdale for the music festivities, we made a final stop outside the gates of Parchman Farm, the Mississippi State Penitentiary where many blues songs got their inspiration and where a fair share of bluesmen spent time.  It once served as temporary residence for ‘Bukka’ White, R.L. Burnside, and reportedly Sonny Boy Williamson II.  
Kicking things off on the main stage Friday night for the Sunflower River Blues and Gospel Festival were The Delta Blues Museum Band, a group of very talented young music students being schooled in the Blues.  It’s a delight to see the torch being handed down to another generation.  It was also terrific to see Heather Crosse with Heavy Suga and the SweetTones.  Unfortunately, the electricity to the stage was knocked out, and the evening was cut short.  I reviewed her album Groovin’ at the Crosse Roads several years ago, and absolutely loved it.  

On Saturday, the festival features music on nine separate stages downtown, all of which are indoors, with the exception of the main stage.  The main stage sits next to the Delta Blues Museum where we began the day with an enlightening visit.  I definitely got my steps in, as I criss-crossed town, making stops at Ground Zero Blues Club, Levon’s Bar & Grill, Hambone Art & Music, Red’s Lounge, and The Blueberry CafĂ© to hear Kenny Brown, Pat Thomas, Deak Harp, Little Willie Farmer, Terry ‘Harmonica’ Bean, Super Chikan, and Anthony ‘Big A’ Sherrod.  The weather was perfect as we settled in at the main stage for Big George Brock followed up by David Dunavent & EVOL Love.   

Closing the evening out at Hopson Plantation Commissary next door to the Shack Up Inn, I was captivated by an ensemble called Black Water Trio, a local Clarksdale group which normally plays as a three piece with two guitars and fiddle, but for this evening, they were a five-piece band complete with drummer and bass. I loved the unique blend of country-fried roots and rock.  They were an absolute blast, as was the whole trip.   
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*All Photos by Phillip Smith

Kevin, Galen, Aaron, Kyle, and me on Beale Street

Eric Hughes Band at Rum Boogie Cafe

Hotel Chisca

Kyle and I arriving at Ground Zero

Ground Zero Blues Club

Blues Alley

Signage 

In front of the Shack Up Inn

Play Pretty at the Shack Up Inn

David Dunavant at Ground Zero Blues Club

Terry 'Harmonica' Bean at Red's Lounge

Red's Lounge

At the Shack Up Inn

Shack Up Inn


Shack Up Inn

W.C. Handy marker at Tutwiler. Mississippi 

Tutwiler, Mississippi 

Sonny Boy Williamson II grave

Site of Emmett Till's Freedom Trail marker near Money, MS

Robert Johnson Blues at Little Zion Baptist Church, Greenwood, MS

Probably the true final resting place for Robert Johnson

Crystal Grill café in Greenwood, MS

Furry Lewis marker in Greenwood, MS
 
Robert Johnson marker purchased by Sony/Columbia Records near Morgan City, MS

Where the Souther;n Cross The Dog Blues Trail Marker in Moorhead, MS

Where the Southern Crosses the Yellow Dog Mississippi Historical marker in Moorhead, MS

Parchman Farms Blues marker

The Main Stage @ The Delta Blues Museum

Lady Trucker

Heather Crosse

The Shack Up Inn

The Shack Up Inn bar and stage

Groovy 'Super Chikan' guitars for sale at Shack Up Inn

My shack at The Shack Up Inn

Paramount Theater in Clarksdale, MS

Pat Thomas at Ground Zero Blues Club

Pat Thomas at Ground Zero Blues Club

Levon's Bar & Grill

Deak Harp at Levon's

Deak Harp

Clarksdale, MS

Little Willie Farmer at Red's

Red's Lounge

Deak's Place

Terry 'Harmonica' Bean at Levon's

Super Chikan at Bluesberry Cafe

Super Chikan at Bluesberry Cafe

Anthony 'Big A' Sherrod at Bluesberry Cafe
 
Big George Brock on the Main Stage

David Dunavent & EVOL Love on the Main Stage

Blackwater Trio at Hopson Plantation Commissary 







Websites of places mentioned:



Chisca Hotel – thechisca.com

Rum Boogie CafĂ© – rumboogie.com

Cathead Delta Blues and & Folk Art – cathead.biz

Shack Up Inn – shackupinn.com

Ground Zero Blues Club – groundzerobluesclub.com

Red’s Juke Joint – This is a juke joint son, there ain’t no website!

Delta Blues Museum – deltabluesmuseum.org

Levon’s Bar & Grill – levons.net

Hambone Art & Music – stanstreet.com

Hopson Plantation Commissary – hopsonplantation.com



Websites of artists mentioned:



Eric Hughes – erichughesband.com

Deak Harp – deakharp.com

Black Water Trio - blackwatertrio.com